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Just north of Glenwood, Hwy 159 twists its way off Hwy 180 for a vertiginous – and scenic – 9 miles on the slow-going route to Mogollon, a semi–ghost town (sometimes inaccessible in winter). Once an important mining community, it now holds just a few antique and knickknack shops and, as is typical for middle-of-nowhere New Mexico, one proud little restaurant. This is called the Purple Onion, and it's as good as you'd hope after making the trip.