If any place captures the vibe of Puna, it's this beautiful black-sand beach tucked beneath a cliff where all walks of life – hippies, Hawaiians, gays, families, seniors, tourists – do their own uninhibited things. Expect nudity and pakalolo (marijuana), though nobody cares if you don't participate. Think twice about swimming; the surf is treacherous and drownings happen. To get here, turn into a small parking area at Mile 19 and look for the steep, hard-to-spot path leading down to the beach.
Sunday sees a drum circle providing a constant rhythm for dancers, fire spinners, jugglers and hoopers.
Come early on a weekday to avoid the crowds, and be aware that nudity is illegal on all Hawaiian beaches. Don't leave valuables in your car.