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Thao Suranari, wife of the assistant governor during Rama III's reign, is something of a Wonder Woman in these parts. Ya Mo (Grandma Mo), as she’s affectionately called, became a hero in 1826 by organising a successful prisoner revolt after Chao Anou of Vientiane had conquered Khorat during his rebellion against Siam. One version of the legend says she convinced the women to seduce the Lao soldiers (another says she got them drunk) and then the Thai men launched a surprise attack, saving the city.

Her exploits have probably been greatly exaggerated, some say completely concocted, to instill a sense of Thai-ness in the ethnically Lao people of the province, but locals and visiting Thais dismiss all of this entirely and flock to the monument in adoring droves to burn incense and leave offerings of flowers and food. Those whose supplications have been honoured hire singers to perform pleng koh·râht (Khorat folk song) on small stages.


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Ïã¸ÛÁùºÏ²Ê¼´Ê±¿ª½±'s must-see attractions

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1. Chumphon Gate

0.02 MILES

The city's only original gate left standing. It was a part of the city walls erected in 1656 by French technicians on the orders of King Narai (Ayuthaya)…

2. Suranari Hall

0.13 MILES

This little white building is a sort of museum to local heroine Thao Suranari, with a cool diorama and an even cooler sculpted mural of the famous battle…

3. Maha Viravong National Museum

0.21 MILES

Though the collection at this seldom-visited museum is very small, it's very good. There's prehistoric pottery (don't miss sneaking a peek at what's…

4. Wat Phayap

0.27 MILES

When the abbot of Wat Phayap learned that blasting for a quarry in Saraburi Province was destroying a beautiful cave, he rescued pieces of it and…

5. Chang Phueak Shrine

0.48 MILES

The wooden pillar at the centre of this small shrine was once used for tying up sacred 'white' elephants that passed though Khorat on their way to be…

6. San Jao Lak Meuang

0.52 MILES

Khorat's city pillar shrine is pretty ordinary, but it has a large Dan Kwian (a nearby pottery village) ceramic mural on the wall beside it. It shows…

7. Pratu Phonsaen

0.59 MILES

An ornamental city gate built in the location of the original northern gate.

8. Wat Phra Narai Maharat

0.6 MILES

This large temple is of interest primarily for three holy Khmer sandstone sculptures that were unearthed here – Vishnu (Phra Narai in Thai) is the holiest…