CervecerÃa Morito is the undisputed king of Burgos tapas bars and as such it's always crowded. A typical order is alpargata (lashings of cured ham with bread, tomato and olive oil) or the revueltos Capricho de Burgos (scrambled eggs served with potatoes, blood sausage, red peppers, baby eels and mushrooms) – the latter is a meal in itself.
The presentation is surprisingly nouvelle, especially the visual feast of salads. To find room to sit down, come at lunchtime during the week. To immerse yourself in the best of Spanish bar culture, come in the evening but be prepared to wait. There's a quieter upstairs dining area.