A forlorn guardian of the Ibar valley (20km south of Kraljevo), Magli膷 is one of Serbia's best-preserved medieval fortifications. Built in the 13th century to protect the nearby Studenica and 沤i膷a monasteries, it was conquered by the Turks in 1438. The rectangular, 2m-thick defensive walls with seven towers and a 20m-high keep stand on a ridge above the curving river, offering fantastic views over the green hills; within the 2000-sq-m area are the remains of a church and a palace.
To access the fortress, cross the Ibar via a footbridge located opposite the restaurant and bus stop on the Ibar highway, then clamber up the path and steps leading to the northern gate (which is the only entrance to the fort) 鈥 it takes about 15 minutes and there are benches to rest along the way.
There are three signposted hiking trails around Magli膷, ranging from 10km to 18km; see the board with a map next to the restaurant (labelled only in Serbian Cyrillic).
The nearby rapids and gorges of the Ibar river are one of southern Serbia's most popular rafting spots; Wild Serbia offers one-day kayaking tours that include a visit to Magli膷. Every July thousands of people take part in a merry regatta down the Ibar from Magli膷 to Kraljevo.