If you've got a 4WD and a sturdy pair of boots, a visit to the volcano responsible for the devastation visited upon northeastern Savai’i a century ago is worth a few hours of your time. In addition to the fun of the very bumpy ride and pleasant views, you'll also get to meet ‘Da Craterman’, who maintains the track and collects the fee for his village (charming as he is, don't let him charge you more than ST20 per person).
From Safotu take the turn-off to Paia village, then follow the signposted track up the mountain. After a lengthy stint of bouncing over the old lava flow, you’ll reach Craterman’s fale: if he’s not around, keep heading up and you’ll doubtless find him. From here there’s an even bumpier 2km to the car park, where a 10-minute trail leads to the crater’s edge. Keep the kids tight at hand: there’s a vertiginous drop into the lush greenness below. The whole route is lined with Craterman’s cheesy signs representing the visitors from 110-and-counting countries who have made the trek.
