An absolute local's secret for a reason, this top seafooder takes an act of God to find. Hidden among the shipping-container cranes of the Port of Lisbon, its fantastically simple grilled fish paired with top Alentejan and Douro wines draws locals in droves. With shipping containers and departmental port buildings framing the ambience, MarÃa do Céu oversees a parking-lot-style grill.
Seabass, cuttlefish, grouper, sole and more – seasoned with nothing but salt – are charred to perfection and served with boiled potatoes and grelhos (rapini greens), all without a tourist in sight. Technically it's across from the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, but you'll need a schooner to reach it from here! Google Maps is also not your friend (it tries to take you through a restricted area). To find it, walk down Rua Cintura Porto Lisboa along the marina, turn left, and go to the end of the dock.
