Just before noon, the vendors at this row of stalls start carving up steaming sides of mechoui (slow-roasted lamb). Very little English is spoken, but simply point to the best-looking cut of meat, and ask for a nus (half) or rubb (quarter) kilo. The cook will hack off falling-from-the-bone lamb and hand it to you with fresh-baked bread, cumin and salt.
Choose to take away or eat in at benches behind the counter, beside the hot hole in the floor where the lamb is cooked.