Adjoining the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas is the JardÃn Juárez, where the central gazebo (designed by tower specialist Gustave Eiffel) houses juice and sandwich stands. Live-band concerts on Thursday and Sunday evenings start at 6pm. Roving vendors sell balloons, ice cream and corn on the cob under the trees, which fill up with legions of cacophonous grackles at dusk.
Even more entertaining are the guitar trios who warm up their voices and instruments before heading to the cafes across the street to serenade willing patrons. You can request a ballad or two for around M$80.