It might smell more like a blacksmith鈥檚 forge than a restaurant, but don鈥檛 be put off. A dip inside the charcoal-y interior of this city institution is practically obligatory to anyone with more than a faint curiosity about Oaxacan food. The attraction is tlayudas: large, charcoal-grilled tortillas filled with cheese, lettuce and re-fried beans.
Don鈥檛 worry, they鈥檙e wonderful 鈥 just mind you don't get hit in the face by the sparks when they're smoldering on the grill.