Parc National Lokobe protects most of Nosy Be’s remaining endemic vegetation. The reserve is home to the black lemur (the male is dark brown, almost black, while the female is a lovely chestnut colour with white tufts around her ears and cheeks) and several other lemur species. You’re also likely to spot boa constrictors, owls, chameleons and many wonderful plants, from ylang-ylang trees to vanilla orchids, travellers' palms and more. The best time to visit is November to January.
You will need a guide to visit Parc National Lokobe and one of the best is Jean Robert. Jean organises excellent day trips that cost Ar110,000 per person from Hell-Ville or Ar150,000 from Andilana. This includes a taxi between your hotel and Ambatozavavy, transfer in pirogue (dugout canoe) from Ambatozavavy to Ampasipohy (the starting point for walks), a two-hour walk in the forest, lunch, drinks and admission fees to the park.
As well as knowing the area intimately and being a mine of information on all things fauna and flora, Jean is a real character, who will have you singing a Malagasy version of 'Old McDonald's Farm' before you set off but then insist on silence during the visit to minimise disruption to Lokobe’s wildlife (he’ll just whisper the names of the animals as you go).
You'll need shorts and slip-slops (thongs) on the boat but long pants and closed shoes for walking in the forest. Sun cream, a hat and insect repellent are essential, too.