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Mezyan is a Hamra institution. This restaurant-bar has occupied a few locations over the years, serving small plates of Lebanese, Syrian and Armenian mezze to a lefty crowd. Friday nights at the latest incarnation, down an alley next to a bureau de change on Hamra St, are famous for their revelry. Book a table and come ready to shake your hips to Arabic pop tunes.

Indoor smoking is technically illegal in Lebanon, but partiers on weekend nights gleefully flout the law. Those with sensitivity should avoid Mezyan on Friday and Saturday nights. There is no sign on the street, you need to enter the Rasamany Building doorway and then walk to the end of the hall.


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