叠耻箩艒-箩颈 was founded in the 12th century by Emperor Toba, and while the main hall has been repaired over the years it stands pretty much the same as it always has: a simple wooden structure with a terrace overlooking Kyoto's northern mountains. The view is simply awesome; catch it on the right day 鈥 when the skies are clear and there's not another soul around 鈥 and you can have the kind of meditative experience that's so elusive at more famous temples.
It's a Shugend艒 (mountain asceticism) temple, reached via a 430-step climb. There's a formal entry procedure, where you surrender your personal items in exchange for a wooden staff and a special pilgrim鈥檚 bag (you can keep bottled water and your wallet, to make an offering at the temple). Just before the hall, there's a bell you can ring.
叠耻箩艒-箩颈 is easiest to access by car, but you can take bus 32 from Demachiyanagi Station in Kyoto to the Daihizan-guchi bus stop (楼930, 95 minutes, three daily). At the bus stop a narrow road runs 2km to the temple (it's signposted in Japanese).
