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The interior of Trattoria Ermes in Modena.

IMAGE SOURCE: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cittadimodena/5059614302/in/photolist-8mfymU-8H6R4m-8H3GdZ-8H6RBq-8H3GoF-8H6QUq-8H6RWJ-8H3HzP-8H3H9e-8H3HKK-8H3Hsg-8H6Rub-8H6RRw-8H6SgA-8H6Rkf-8H3GC2-6ALKHj-6AGD2i-6AGGfr-3FHUKy-drckqD-bpvZk5-4bpr5Y-3FDzfD-3FHVim-6ALLHj-dWdgaC-dWdfXq-dWdgiC-dW7CVM-dWdgoU

© Courtesy of Città Di Modena

Trattoria Ermes

Top choice in Modena


In business since 1963, this fabulous, affordable little lunch spot is tucked into a single wood-panelled room at the northern edge of downtown Modena. Gregarious patron Ermes Rinaldi runs the place with his wife Bruna: she cooks, he juggles plates and orders while excessively bantering with the customers, though these days he often sits out for health reasons.

Regardless, this is authentic, daily-changing, unpretentious Emilian cuisine at its finest – proposals include lasagne on Monday, gramigna alla salsiccia (pasta with sausage) on Tuesday, passatelli in brodo on Thursday – and so on.


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