A convivial husband-and-wife team as generous with their portions as they are with their hospitality runs this somewhat off-the-beaten-path trattoria in the centre. On a cold day, the savoury passatelli in brodo (passatelli pasta in broth) is immensely satisfying, but heaping platefuls of tagliatelle al ragù and strozzapreti pasta with porcini mushrooms, peas and prosciutto are nearly impossible to overlook.
If you can even make it to the secondi, they do gorgeous things with tagliata (sliced steak).