The hugely impressive 707 hectares that comprise Dublin's Phoenix Park are not just a magnificent playground for all kinds of sport鈥攆rom running to polo鈥攂ut are also home to the president of Ireland, the American ambassador and a large聽herd of fallow deer. It's聽also where you'll find Europe's oldest zoo. How's that for a place to stretch your legs?
Do as Dubliners do on a fine day and聽run, cycle, play, walk, take in a game of cricket, watch a polo match, see the deer (don't feed them), or just lie down, depending on your fancy. There's always something going on in the Phoenix Park, but in summer you'll find it keeps a jam-packed schedule with cultural events, live music, festivals, and games.
What to see
The main thoroughfare聽is Chesterfield Avenue, which runs northwest through the length of the park from the Parkgate Street entrance to the Castleknock Gate. Many landmarks can be found strolling along here. Near the entrance is the 63m-high聽Wellington Monument聽obelisk, which was completed in 1861. Close by聽is the聽People's Garden, dating from 1864, and the聽bandstand聽in the Hollow, a lovely picnic spot. Dublin Zoo is located at this end of the park, as is the quaint and lovely Victorian tearooms.听
Also on Chesterfield Avenue is 脕ras an Uachtar谩in - residence of the president of Ireland - which is open to the public through guided tours on Saturdays. Across the road, and easily visible from it, is the massive聽Papal Cross, which marks the site where Pope John Paul II preached to 1.25 million people in 1979. In the centre of the park the聽Phoenix Monument, erected by Lord Chesterfield in 1747, looks so unlike a phoenix that it's often referred to as the Eagle Monument.
Next door to 脕ras an Uachtar谩in is the restored four-storey Ashtown Castle, a 17th-century tower house, which you can visit on a guided tour.听
The southern part of the park has many聽football聽and聽hurling pitches; although they actually occupy about 80 hectares (200 acres), the area is known as the聽Fifteen Acres. At weekends the football pitches are used by local league teams that can be fun to watch. To the west, the rural-looking聽Glen Pond聽corner of the park is extremely attractive.
At the northwestern end of the park is the聽opulent Farmleigh House, which can only be visited by joining one of the 30-minute house tours. However, the real highlight of the 32-hectare estate is the garden, where regular shows are held, and where you'll find a restaurant and cafe.听There is also an extensive program of cultural events in summer, ranging from food fairs to classical concerts. The 37m clock tower once housed an 8000L water tank that serviced the estate; views from the top are sensational.
Back towards the Parkgate St entrance is the聽Magazine Fort on Thomas鈥檚 Hill.听
History
The deer came first, introduced by Lord Ormond in 1662聽when lands once owned by the Knights of Jerusalem were turned into a royal hunting ground. In 1745 the viceroy Lord Chesterfield threw it open to the public and it has remained that way ever since. (The name 'Phoenix' has nothing to do with the mythical bird; it is a corruption of the Irish聽fionn uisce,聽meaning 'clear water'.)
In 1882 the park played a crucial role in Irish history, when Lord Cavendish, the British chief secretary for Ireland, and his assistant were murdered outside what is now the Irish president's residence by an obscure nationalist group called the Invincibles. Lord Cavendish's home is now called Deerfield and is used as the official residence of the US ambassador.
Opening hours, tours and other practicalities
has a self-guided exhibition on the history and wildlife of the park; you can also arrange and collect tickets for the Saturday tours of聽脕ras an Uachtar谩in, and tours of Ashtown Castle.
One of the best ways to see the park is by bicycle. If you don't have wheels of your own, you can rent a bike from at the Parkgate Street entrance. Bring valid photo聽ID. Rental fees are 鈧6 for up to one hour;聽鈧10 for up to three hours; and聽鈧15 for a full day. The company also offers guided bike tours.听
Phoenix Park is open 24 hrs a day, seven days a week, all year round, but聽it is not advised to hang around after dark.
