Naggar's most magical temple sits on a hilltop terrace with lovely views. This was the site of the ancient town of Thawa, which pre-dated Naggar by around 1000 years. The temple courtyard is intoxicatingly scented with citrus and honeysuckle. The patched-up 11th century shikhara (stone tower) includes musical and (defaced) karma sutra mini-carvings. The sanctum enshrines a black-faced Krishna playing the murli (flute), hence the temple's name.
The shortest route to get there is around 25 minutes on foot, starting up the cobbled lane that starts from the sharp corner of the road between the castle and the Roerich gallery. This initially climbs beside the stream but soon swerves right. At the third zigzag, walk between two buildings (one mural daubed and named North) then take the stairway up to the left immediately after. Just before you arrive, the new building on your right is the temple priest's family house, a new place that doubles as guesthouse and yoga centre.
