West from Alyki, past Thymonia Beach, is the clifftop Moni Arhangelou, an Athonite dependency and working convent, notable for its 400-year-old church (with some ungainly modern touches) and stellar sea views. Those improperly attired will get shawled up for entry by the friendly nuns. Archangel Michael, whose name the monastery bears, is venerated as the patron of the Greek armed forces; don't be surprised to see a room filled with sabres and uniforms attached to the main church.
From their island retreat, the nuns can observe Mt Athos, a forbidden place for women. The sacred mountain looms across the straits on Halkidiki Peninsula. About 1.5km west of the monastery, a small dirt road heads 1km to Livadi Beach, one of Thasos’ most beautiful, with aquamarine waters ringed by cliffs and forests and just a few umbrellas set in the sand.
