Though modern St-Jean has expanded considerably, during medieval times the entire town was enclosed by defensive ramparts guarding France's southwestern corner against incursions from across the Spanish border. The town's four original portes (gates) are still in situ, including one at either end of the cobbled rue de la Citadelle.
The traditional entry point for pilgrims is via the Porte St-Jacques, at the top end of the street, while at the other, the Porte Notre-Dame stands next to the town's most famous landmark – the Pont Romain, a photogenic arched bridge spanning the River Nive. Despite the name, it's not actually Roman – it was built sometime around 1720.
As you walk along rue de la Citadelle, look out for the dates of construction carved into the lintels above the doorways (the oldest we found was 1510). Also keep your eyes peeled for the motif of the scallop shell – the traditional symbol of the Santiago de Compostela, as pilgrims who completed the route would take a souvenir shell home from the Spanish coast.
