Samograd, the largest cave of this extraordinary complex, has four beautiful chambers 鈥 the biggest is large enough to host a concert every Easter Monday. Tours (not suitable for small children) descend 480 handmade stairs into the depths; check the website for departure times. Wear warm clothes and sensible shoes. The cave complex lies on the edge of 笔别谤耻拧颈膰, a small town 12km north of Gospi膰.
笔别谤耻拧颈膰 is also notable for its pretty onion-domed church and its perfect chess-piece Turkish castle.