Descend into the final abode of Tian Yi (1534–1605), a Ming dynasty court eunuch given the unprecedented honour of an imperial mausoleum, thanks to the great sway he held over Emperor Wanli. The tomb itself is empty, although another eunuch's leathery corpse is on show in the attached Eunuch Museum, along with savage castration knives and a diorama graphically recreating 'the chop'. Ouch. From the subway, the tomb is a 20-minute walk north.
In the late Ming dynasty, court eunuchs like Tian Yi amassed enormous political influence, as emperors, distrustful of their own ministers, would empower their palace servants instead. Bribes, kickbacks and embezzlement were par for the course. Under Emperor Wanli, generally vilified for presiding over the downfall of the Ming, the eunuchs reached a peak of power and influence.
The museum also introduces the life of China’s last eunuch, Sun Yaoting, who died in Beijing in 1996, aged 93. Sun was castrated by his father mere months before the collapse of the Qing, China's last imperial dynasty, but he went on to serve Puyi, China's 'last emperor' in the Japanese-run puppet state of Manchukuo.
After visiting, take a stroll along Moshikou Dajie, the lane running south of the tomb. It has several fine old buildings and antique shops.
