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Creak open the door of New Norcia's 1850s Georgian-meets-Latvian Abbey Church, flanked by slender palms. Spot the kangaroos in the sgraffito murals, depicting the Stations of the Cross (look hard – there's also an astronaut). It's a sombre, hushed interior, the wind whispering in the eaves: you'll be forgiven for feeling that you're not alone in here (we made a hurried exit).