From the deep-fried deliciousness of pescaíto frito and the uber-fresh saltiness of redtuna to the famously dry finos of sherry-glugging, flamenco-loving Jerez – Spain’s soulful southernmost province,á徱, is a joy for food-loving travellers. Here, the wind-swept, white-sand Atlantic coast serves up seafood delicacies you’re unlikely to savour in Mediterranean Spain, while the subtle spices of neighbouring Morocco infuse many a local dish.
And, amid all the traditional cooking, a raft of renowned creative chefs continues to throw together innovative techniques, original flavours, international influences and fabulously fresh local produce, setting the tone for one of the most exciting regional-food scenes in Spain.
á徱
All gastronomic explorations of the province should start with cheery capitalá徱. Meeting this historic city is as much about hunting down gaditano culinary triumphs as lazing on the dusty blonde beaches and drinking in the bubbly urban atmosphere.
á徱’s sunny seaside perch plays a key role in its ever-advancing food scene, which is all about fresh-as-it-gets seafood. The quintessential local dish is pescaíto frito (fried fish), best served simple-style with a squeeze of lemon at, say, always-packedFreiduría Las Flores. The lively Barrio de la Viña is the centre of all things fruits-of-the-sea. For many, the top tapas in town await at elegantEl Faro,ɳDz tortillitas de camarones (crispy shrimp fritters) are legendary. Nearby, much-lovedCasa Manteca is a serious institution for bite-sized wax-paper servings of chicharrones (pressed pork).
But all those wonderful fresh ingredients are also being crafted into highly creative incarnations with a firmly contemporary twist. Innovative arrivals include Andalucian-internationalLa Marmita, sophisticatedSopranis, former grocer’s shopUltramar&nos, queue-out-the-door and the globe-trotting neoclassicalMercado Central de Abastos. In the super-central Barrio del Pópulo, old-schoolTaberna La Sorpresa has sprung back to life with its tuna-powered tapas and sherries straight from the barrel. Former intellectual hubCafé Royalty – once a favourite of composer Manuel de Falla – has been exquisitely revamped and now turns out fine modern Andalucian cuisine amid frescoed ceilings and mirrored walls.
Where to stay: The sea-frontingParador de á徱 is a bold-design beauty with four pools, a plush spa and chicly contemporary rooms.
The Sherry Triangle
Jerez de la Frontera
North from á徱, sherry scents the air and classic seaside cuisine collides with inventive international touches and strong Moorish heritage in Jerez de la Frontera, ‘capital’ of Spain’s famed Sherry Triangle, whose traditional dishes spin from rich rabo de toro (oxtail) to riñones al jerez (sherry-braised kidneys).
á徱’ world-famous sherry industry was born in the late 18th century when Anglo-Irish entrepreneurs befriended local winegrowers and set up firms likeOsborne,Sandeman and ҴDzԳá-ⲹ. Get into the swing of things at forward-thinkingBodegas Lustau(founded in 1896), or head for handsomeBodegas Tradición, where you’ll be sampling extra-aged sherries against a backdrop of Goya, Zurbarán and Velázquez canvases. Also unmissable are Jerez’ revitalised tabancos, where orders of chicharrones and tortilla are chalked up on the bar, sherry is poured from the barrel and the scene is fuelled by raw live flamenco; tryEl Pasaje orPlateros.
Much like á徱, Jerez’s culinary scene is also taking a cutting-edge turn. Gorgeous old bodegaLa Carboná serves elegantly inventive plates like almadraba tuna tartare and oloroso-roasted (sherry-roasted) pigeon alongside delectable sherry pairing menus. Meanwhile, superstar chef Juan Luis Fernández welcomed the city’s first Michelin star in 2018 with his astonishing French-Andalucian cookery at
Sanlúcar de Barrameda & El Puerto de Santa María
Over on the Guadalquivir estuary,Sanlúcar de Barrameda is the earthy home of salt-tanged manzanilla – a young, dry, one-of-a-kind sherry produced nowhere else in the world. The town’s riverside Bajo de Guía strip is famed for its seafood restaurants, whileCasa Balbino is the go-to for a glass of the local tipple accompanied by perfectly crispy tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters). But the Sherry Triangle’s gastronomic queen remains Ángel León’s superbly imaginative seafood sensationAponiente inEl Puerto de Santa María – one of just two three-Michelin-star restaurants in Andalucía. Creeping up behind is León’s , in Sancti Pectri south of á徱, also awarded a Michelin star in 2018.
Where to stay: Newcomer, Jerez’ first five-star hotel, occupies a 19th-century mansion graced by smartly updated rooms.
Vejer de la Frontera
Easily one of the most evocative towns in southern Spain, whitewashedVejer de la Frontera (under an hour’s drive southeast of á徱) has subtly grown into a world-wandering foodie gem of Andalucía. Amid the tangled old-town alleys and on the palm-sprinkled Plaza de España, you can just as cheerfully dig into typical age-old recipes as Andalucian fusion cooking or Moroccan–Middle Eastern delights.
For terrific Moroccan–Andalucian cuisine in a historical setting, uberromantic garden restaurantEl Jardín del Califa is just the ticket. Contemporary AndalucianCorredera 55 and 1930s-inspired are other Vejer favourites, while traditional staples like red tuna, grilled prawns and platos combinados (meat- or egg-with-three-veg dishes) are on show at classics,La Oficina andPepe Julián. And if you fancy trying your hand at those local specialities, there are excellent cooking classes, as well as food tours, withAnnie B’s Spanish Kitchen (fino included!)
Where to stay: Fresh-faced 2019 arrival is a luxe conversion of a 19th-century merchant’s house. Another option is the Morocco-inspired sister hotelLa Casa del Califa, with its roots in the 10th century.
Barbate and Zahara de los Atunes
Southeast from á徱 along the silky sands of the wind-sculpted Costa de la Luz, superbly fresh Atlantic bluefin tuna is the king, typically caught using the ancient almadraba method (believed to date back to Phoenician times). The fishing town of Barbate claims the region’s finest almadraba catch, as well as its leading seafooder,, ‘the temple of tuna’. Tradition and innovation fuse to perfection in such dishes as tuna-back ceviche, jamón marino (salted tuna belly) and atún encebollado (tuna cooked with onions).
The El Campero team also runs tuna-tastic in aptly named Zahara de los Atunes, a mellow neighbouring fishing village turned low-key golden-beach hangout. Your seafood adventures continue at favoured beachfront eateries like award-winningRestaurante Antonio.
If you happen to be roaming around the Costa de la Luz in May or June, keep an eye out for Ruta del Atún festivals.
Where to stay: has unfussy classic-design rooms and an outstanding restaurant by the beach in Zahara.
Tarifa
Zipping southeast along the Costa de la Luz from Zahara, you’ll hit kitesurfing capitalTarifa, with its blissful white-gold beaches and evocative old town. The buzzy wave-riding community and flourishing wellness scene mean Tarifa’s increasingly seductive food world has an enticingly global (and vegetarian- and vegan-friendly) slant, blending á徱 staples and international trends (hello smoothie bowls!) with tantalising Middle Eastern, North African and Mediterranean flavours.
Organic local ingredients fuel the health-focused kitchen at co-working space/yoga spotTarifa Eco Center; low-key meat-freeChilimosa delights with its zesty falafel wraps; and long-running, no-bookings-takenEl Francés and its sister rustle up superb gaditano tapas with a creative flourish. Don’t miss the work-of art breakfasts at forever-popularCafé Azul and Café 10.
Where to stay: Andalucía meets Morocco at sultrily reimagined 17th-century homeThe Riad, while laid-back Hostal África makes a delightful budget base in an old 19th-century townhouse.
The White Towns
Venture inland and sharply uphill, along the twisting roads of á徱’s ruggedSierra de Grazalemaand you’ll feel the gastronomy shift. Along with the precipitous gorges, ancient firs, sky-reaching peaks and bucolic pueblos blancos (white villages) come rich mountain meats, artisanal payoyo goat’s cheese, delicate tagarninas (thistles) and a wealth of other goodies sourced straight from the local hills. Once you’re done kayaking, canyoning, caving, paragliding, or hiking up 1648m-highEl Torreón, dig into mountain-cheese platters and á徱 wines at creativeAl Lago amid the whitewashed streets ofZahara de la Sierra, or perhaps a tagarnina scramble (made with golden thistles) or sirloin in green-pepper sauce atRestaurante El Torreón in white-walled, red-roofedGrazalema.
Where to stay: Wake up to twinkling reservoir views at boutique-designAl Lago in Zahara de la Sierra or go for colourful rustic style and a leafy pool garden at charming Grazalema guesthouseLa Mejorana.
https://shop.lonelyplanet.com/products/andalucia-travel-guide-9
