香港六合彩即时开奖

Think of the Iberian peninsula, and you鈥檒l have quick visions of Portugal鈥檚 fado and tile-fronted buildings, and Spain鈥檚 bulls and matadors.

Yet there鈥檚 a corner of the peninsula that鈥檚 more James Joyce than Miguel de Cervantes. Portugal鈥檚 northernmost region and Spain鈥檚 northwestern corner are lands united by a landscape that鈥檚 perpetually green, and a common culture that can be traced back to Celtic tribes who inhabited the area until the beginning of the Christian era.

To celebrate this shared heritage, (Portugal鈥檚 national train service, known as CP) and (Spain鈥檚 equivalent) have joined forces on the , a train line that links Porto, in Portugal, and Vigo, in Spain. Allured, I hopped on board, extending my itinerary all the way to A Coru帽a, close to Iberia鈥檚 northernmost point. Along the way, I stopped in at places that express this region鈥檚 fascinating shared Celtic heritage.

The view from the train station of Viana
Streetscapes of Viana 漏 Austin Bush

Porto鈥揤iana do Castelo

My journey starts at 8:13am at Porto鈥檚 Campanh茫 Station on a three-carriage CP commuter train. It鈥檚 bound for Vigo, just across the border in Spain 鈥 but I鈥檓 hopping off at Viana do Castelo, a provincial Portuguese city with outsized charm and some intriguing traces of Celtic culture.聽聽

An hour north of Porto, the landscape fools me into thinking I鈥檓 in Ireland: it鈥檚 emerald green and misty, with granite villas more common than tile-fronted houses. At certain points I see people walking along the train tracks: pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela.

The city鈥檚 historical center takes the form of long streets lined with stately tile-fronted buildings that end in seemingly hidden churches and squares. It鈥檚 possible to approach Viana as a day trip, leaving your bags at the local tourism office and exploring and eating before catching the late train to Vigo at 8:14pm. Yet it鈥檚 such a charming city that I opted to stay overnight.聽

Celtic ruins of Citania de Santa Luzia
Celtic ruins of Citania de Santa Luzia聽漏 Austin Bush

It鈥檚 in Viana that I began to see a shift in people鈥檚 appearance, with blue eyes and red hair increasingly common. Yet the most palpable link with Celtic culture is the Cit芒nia de Santa Luzia, the misty, mysterious ruins of a hill fort that date back to the 4th century BCE. The Cit芒nia is perched at the top of the hill that overlooks the city, and during summer (from June to September, 9am鈥8pm) can be reached via a funicular. Otherwise, it鈥檚 a very, very long walk uphill; consider a taxi from the train station (around 鈧20 round trip, including waiting time). Those interested in Celtic culture could also consider renting a car and driving the 50km to Castro de Santa Trega, just across the Spanish border and one of the largest and best-preserved hill forts in the region.

Back in town, Museu do Traje is dedicated entirely to the area鈥檚 distinctive clothing. It鈥檚 one of the best small museums I鈥檝e been to, with beautiful displays and old photos, all featuring clear explanations in English. And it would be a food crime to visit Viana without a bite at Manuel Nat谩rio. This 85-year-old bakery specializes in bolas de Berlim, fried donuts filled with egg cream and dusted with cinnamon sugar, which have a cult reputation among pastry nerds in Portugal (yes, they exist).

Fishing boats on shore opposite Viana do Castelo
Fishing boats on shore opposite Viana do Castelo聽漏 Austin Bush

Viana do Castelo鈥揤igo

At 9:16am the next morning, I board my next train. Immediately north of town, the train skirts the coast, as it鈥檚 sprayed by foam from the rough sea. At Caminha, the train turns inland, hugging the east bank of the Minho River until it crosses a bridge and enters Spain at Tui.聽

Just over an hour later, I arrive in Vigo. Seemingly forgotten in the country鈥檚 northwest corner, surrounded by water and perpetually rainy and green, it might be the Seattle of Spain. At one time, it was once country鈥檚 fastest-growing city, and urban sprawl has unfortunately masked some of its charm. Yet give it enough time and you鈥檒l find that Vigo is filled with super-friendly folks who are actually happy to see international tourists.聽

Musicians playing Celtic-influenced music at a festival in Vigo, Spain
Musicians playing Celtic-influenced music at a festival in Vigo, Spain聽漏 Austin Bush

Vigo鈥檚 most prominent Celtic landmark is its castro, the Spanish term for the hilltop forts common in the region. Alternatively, you can stay in the 21st century at MARCO, the city鈥檚 excellent contemporary-art museum. Located in a former cannery on a strip of white sand outside the city center, the exhibits artifacts that go back as far as the Celtic era 鈥 but the emphasis is on fishing, with a deep dive into Galicia鈥檚 canning industry. Indeed, Galicia is home to some of the world鈥檚 best seafood, and Vigo is a great place to try it. Visit R煤a Pescader铆a, where you can hop from bar to bar, eating oysters and drinking albari帽o along the way.聽

Vigo is also well-situated for a day trip to the , 45 minutes away by boat. The islands are part of a protected area have beautiful beaches as well as opportunities for walking and swimming.

Train station at Santiago de Compostela
Train station at Santiago de Compostela聽漏 Austin Bush

Vigo鈥揝antiago de Compostela

The next morning, I walk to Vigo鈥檚 other train station, the mall-bound Urz谩iz, for my train on to Santiago de Compostela. The route is inland, and the high-speed Renfe train passes through rolling hills, river valleys and granite homes linked to seemingly endless small vineyards.

Arriving in Santiago an hour later, I feel obliged to make a visit to the Praza do Obradoiro to watch pilgrims arriving at their destination, the dramatic scene set to a soundtrack of bagpipe-playing buskers. If that sound appeals, hit Casa das Crechas, where live folk jams held on Wednesdays often delve into Celtic themes and melodies.

Santiago is amazing for destination-free wandering. To get your bearings, head to Museo do Pobo Galego, an excellent museum dedicated to local culture. Though there鈥檚 very little information in English, the displays feature charmingly antiquated illustrations. There鈥檚 an entire section on bagpipe making, and the first floor has displays on the area鈥檚 early history. Expect a good crash course in the area鈥檚 Celtic roots via models of castros, as well as examples of petroglyphs and other Celtic art.

For a more contemporary experience with Celtic culture, align your visit with the Festival of St John, in late June, and take part in the solstice bonfires that are meant to drive away the city鈥檚 meigas, witches with origins in Celtic beliefs. During the rest of the year, several outfits offer guided night tours of Santiago de Compostela that focus on its dark spirits. Alternatively, rent a car and drive to Castro de Baro帽a, maybe Galicia鈥檚 most famous 鈥 and impressive 鈥 castro, a former Celtic-era village perched on a semi-island.聽聽

Waterfrong buildings in A Coruna
A Coru帽a's grand waterfront buildings 漏 Austin Bush

Santiago de Compostela鈥揂 Coru帽a

Via a high-speed train, the end point of my journey is less than a half hour away.

A Coru帽a, located on the northern coast of Iberia, is a city surrounded by water;聽Playa del Orz谩n is a beautiful, expansive beach that will likely be a short walk from your hotel. Head north from there to encounter the rocky peninsula that鈥檚 home to the Tower of Hercules, the world鈥檚 only existing Roman lighthouse 鈥 and a landmark with origins in a story that blends Greek, Roman and Celtic lore. At the base of the path that leads up to the lighthouse is a statue dedicated to Breog谩n, said to be an important ancestor to the Celtic people. A brief walk away is Menhirs for Peace, a 1994 homage to the megaliths found across the Celtic realm. Since this peninsula is home to lots of paths and small beaches, you can treat it as an entire half-day trip.

The coast and beach along Playa de Orzan
The expansive Playa de Orzan is a popular surf spot 漏 Austin Bush

For a relatively remote, medium-sized town, A Coru帽a features a disproportionate amount of art. When I was in town, the offerings included , a fascinating exhibition on Polaroid photography at the and a Picasso show at the Museo de Belas Artes. It鈥檚 also a fun city, with R煤a Galera in the center of town a buzzy strip with dozens of bars and restaurants.

Dedicated castro fans should consider a side trip to Castro de Borneiro, located 65km west of the city, and thought to be one of Galicia鈥檚 most extensive Celtic hilltop settlements.

Statue of Breogan and Tower of Hercules
Statue of Breogan and Tower of Hercules during the 'golden hour' 漏 Austin Bush

Practical information about the Linha Celta

Although both countries handle the trains on this route, ticket purchases are generally done via Spain鈥檚 ; download its to make purchases more convenient. Keep in mind that there鈥檚 a one-hour time difference between Portugal and Spain. A full price ticket from Porto to Vigo costs聽鈧14.95 per adult.

Explore related stories

06/09/2024 Viveiro, SPAIN: Views from the Costa Verde Express between Viveiro and Ribadeo.
Spain Marketing 1379722

Sustainable Travel

Spain by train: sustainable connections are a treat

Jul 17, 2024 鈥 6 min read