Many consider the Linha do Douro, the train line that follows the valley, one of the聽most beautiful train rides in Europe.
The quaint Linha do Douro line in northern Portugal weaves through a river valley lined with vineyards.聽
There isn鈥檛 much in the tiny town of Pocinho. But in the case of northern Portugal鈥檚 Linha do Douro, the train line that connects this rural village and Porto, it鈥檚 more about the journey to get there.
The Douro River bisects the top half of Portugal, carving a ragged gap from east to west. That glass of port you tasted in Porto? It got its start in the almost impossibly steep vineyards that frame the river valley. And while most visitors to Porto will experience the Douro River via a cruise, I wanted to do it by train.
At around 200km (125 miles) long, the line terminates at Pocinho, just shy of the聽Spanish聽border. This means that the train doesn鈥檛 really get you anywhere in particular, and you have to return the way you came. But if done right, it鈥檚 possible to approach the Linha do Douro as a slow and contemplative 鈥 yet also occasionally dramatic 鈥 day trip, one that even offers a break for lunch and wine tasting.聽
It's an early start from Porto's S茫o Bento Station
To ensure that you have time for lunch or (and?) wine tasting, it鈥檚 necessary to take the first train of the day, which departs from Porto鈥檚 legendary S茫o Bento Station at 7:15am. I was obliged to change trains in the town of Ermesinde, just northeast of Porto, and it was here that I boarded my Linha do Douro train (to avoid having to change trains, catch the first direct Linha do Douro service from S茫o Bento at 8:20am). The stock 鈥 made in Switzerland, painted a 鈥70s-era orange and virtually empty 鈥 could easily have featured in a Wes Anderson film.
The next hour, you鈥檒l traverse Porto鈥檚 urban sprawl 鈥 predominantly gray, semi-industrial feeling suburbs. Your first tunnel (of 23 total) is in Ca铆de, which is also where the views start to become more rural. The town of Ribadouro offers your first glimpse of the Douro, and it鈥檚 from this point on that things get interesting.
The train snakes along the river, with incredibly steep terraced vineyards and tiny villages clinging to hillsides rising on either side. I did the trip in late January when mist and fog obscured the views but created an otherworldly, remote atmosphere. Whistle-stop stations boast charming tiles; at some points the train tracks are virtually at river level. Be sure to sit on the right-hand side for the best views. You may be tempted to hop off in the large-ish city of Peso da R茅gua, but a wiser stop is 笔颈苍丑茫辞, where you鈥檒l arrive at about 10am (nearer 11am, if you went direct from S茫o Bento).
Disembark in 笔颈苍丑茫辞 for lunch and wine tasting
The terminus for one-day boat trips from Porto, 笔颈苍丑茫辞 is a funny little town, a mix of crusty old winemakers and wide-eyed tourists. It also offers enough to occupy you for a few hours. Take the obligatory photo of the tile murals at the station, and after a walk along the charming waterfront, start planning lunch. A handful of cafes and restaurants are in the center of town, with spectacular riverfront eateries, such as Veladoura or Cozinha da Clara, located a short walk away.
Alternatively, 笔颈苍丑茫辞 is also home to a legendary butcher, Talho Qualifer 鈥 Quinta das Barrocas, where you can taste smoked meats in-house or assemble a riverside picnic lunch. Of course, you鈥檙e in the heart of Portugal鈥檚 most prestigious wine country, so pencil in time for a tasting session. Several houses, including , and are located right in town, and offer tastings of standard and fortified wines.聽
Satiated and slightly buzzed after four or five hours in 笔颈苍丑茫辞, it鈥檚 time to continue to the end of the line: Pocinho. Catch the 3:43pm, which arrives in Pocinho in time for you to catch the last return train back to Porto.
The final stretch from 笔颈苍丑茫辞 to Pocinho is the most scenic
The final hour that connects 笔颈苍丑茫辞 and Pocinho is arguably the most beautiful section of the line 鈥 and the section that the day-trippers on boats from Porto miss out on. Outside of 笔颈苍丑茫辞, the Douro narrows and the scenery becomes more rocky, rugged and wild. At Ferradosa, the train crosses a bridge (one of 35 along the route) to the south bank of the river. Shift to the left side of the train to see tiny train stations 鈥 shelters, really 鈥 that link to trailheads, abandoned wineries and vineyards that extend right to the tracks.
As you approach the end of the line, the landscape abruptly widens into a broad valley studded with olive trees, a dam and power plant ominously looming in the distance. In Pocinho, the original wooden station is still intact, though there鈥檚 not much else to see or do here.
Take the 5:14pm train back to Porto
Stretch your legs, take a bathroom break and board the train (most likely the same one you arrived on) returning to Porto, which departs at 5:14pm. If there are no delays, you should arrive in Porto around 8:30pm, just in time for dinner.
FAQs about the Linha do Douro
When is the best time to go?
I did the trip in January, which meant the weather was particularly wet and misty. If you鈥檙e serious about clear views or photography 鈥 or simply want to take advantage of the longer daylight hours 鈥 make the trip during the summer months.
Where can you get food and drink on the journey?
笔颈苍丑茫辞 is your best bet for food and drink. Alternatively, if you鈥檙e on a budget, pack a lunch and a bottle of wine ahead of time and plan a riverside picnic.
Where do you buy tickets?
I bought my tickets in advance, yet given how few people ride the Linha do Douro nowadays, you鈥檇 probably be fine buying your tickets on the day of travel at the station.
How much does it cost?
A round-trip ticket costs just under 鈧30; breaking the trip into bits and buying three separate tickets as I suggest here will cost a tiny bit more.
