The ultimate guide to Hornstrandir, Europe's last wilderness
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Jan 10, 2022 鈥 6 min read
Hornstrandir is filled with remote, incredible landscapes like Hornbjarg, a cliff on the nature reserve's northern tip 漏Keith Manning/500px
Hornstrandir is one of Europe鈥檚 last wildernesses: a breathtakingly beautiful, hard-to-reach nature reserve of soaring mountains and precipitous cliffs.
Perched on the furthest tip of 滨肠别濒补苍诲鈥檚 far-flung Westfjords, it has limited accommodation and transport links, a very short season and challenging terrain. If you plan properly it鈥檚 perfectly possible to experience the exhilarating beauty of this pristine wilderness. Here's how to plan a visit.
Tucked into 滨肠别濒补苍诲鈥檚 northwest corner, the 589-sq-km (227-sq-mi) has an end-of-the-world feel. Waterfalls thunder down mountains, the midnight sun kisses the ocean, cliffs plummet to the sea and the mighty Drangaj枚kull glacier overlooks the scene.
Hornstrandir occupies a jagged, fjord-scored peninsula and access is largely by fleets of ferries running from the Westfjords鈥 biggest town, 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤, some 30km (18.6 miles) south.
The nature reserve is one of 滨肠别濒补苍诲鈥檚 most important strongholds of the protected Arctic fox and is also home to a wealth of seals, whales, puffins, sea eagles, black guillemots and Arctic terns.
Hornstrandir鈥檚 mountainous interior is edged by a string of campgrounds, huts and hostels, often at ferry drop-off points. Hiking trails snake between accommodation and ferry sites, opening up memorable multi-day hikes.
The reserve is all but uninhabited. Designated a nature reserve in 1975, its last few farmers moved out in 1952 鈥 a handful of their descendants return in the summers to their restored homes. Today, Hornstrandir is managed by the, which has produced.
When to visit Hornstrandir
The season on Hornstrandir is short. Ferries only run between June and August. The actual visitor season is shorter still 鈥 between late June and mid-August when the handful of hostels and huts are open. Many of Hornstrandir鈥檚 regular visitors say the best time to visit is an even narrower window, arguing only July gives the best of the notoriously fickle weather.
Where to hike
Hornstrandir is a hiker's paradise. The most popular route is the Royal Horn (or Hornslei冒) a four- to five-day hike which crisscrosses the peninsula from Vei冒ileysufj枚r冒ur in the south via Hornv铆k in the north and back to Hesteyri in the south. It takes in the sheer Hornbjarg bird cliffs, mountain passes, an abandoned village and glacier fjords.
Alternatively, some use the Old Doctor鈥檚 House, a cafe-turned-guesthouse in Hesteyri, as a base for day hikes. Others venture to even more remote ferry drop-off points and strike out from there.
The Environment Agency of Iceland has an.
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Guided tours of Hornstrandir
The harsh terrain prompts many to join guided treks. In fact, if you don鈥檛 have extensive mountain experience and top-notch gear, it鈥檚 the wisest and most enjoyable choice.
Firms include West Tours, Borea and Wild Westfjords 鈥 all with bases in 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤. They offer Hornstrandir hikes of varying lengths ranging from a half-day tour around the abandoned village of Hesteyri to 6-16km day hikes (3.7-9.9 miles) and six-day backpacking expeditions.
Other options include single- or multi-day kayaking tours, Arctic fox photography trips and wildlife watching tours.
They鈥檙e hugely popular experiences 鈥 book early to be sure of a space.
Where to stay
You鈥檒l need to love camping to enjoy Hornstrandir 鈥 the 16 campgrounds are bare-bone affairs. You have to stick to designated locations; wild or backwoods camping isn鈥檛 allowed. The.
Hornstrandir has a handful of hostels offering 鈥渟leeping bag accommodation鈥 鈥 basically a bed in a private room or dorm without bed linen; you bring your own sleeping bag and towels. But as you鈥檙e carrying a lot of camping kit, that shouldn鈥檛 be a problem.
The most useful hostels are:
Old Doctor鈥檚 House 鈥 Hornstrandir鈥檚 famous guesthouse-cafe is set in the abandoned village of Hesteyri on the southwest coast 鈥 its pancakes are legendary.
Hornbjargsviti 鈥 Right beside a lighthouse, bunk bed accommodation and campsite on Hornstrandir鈥檚 northeast shore.
鈥 Just outside Hornstrandir鈥檚 far southeast edge. Basic sleeping bag accommodation, campsite and two houses sleeping three to five people. Plus 鈥 blissfully 鈥 a geothermal pool and hot tub.
What gear and skills do you need to visit Hornstrandir?
Hornstrandir is a hazardous outdoor environment. If you鈥檙e striking out on your own, be aware there are no services, no phone signal and even in summer, you鈥檙e likely to encounter snow, fog and raging rivers.
Some of the trails are partly marked with cairns, others are routes on a map rather than clearly-defined paths on the ground 鈥 a detailed map, a compass and GPS are essential.
If you鈥檙e planning your own trek, you鈥檒l also need to carry all gear, including clothes, tents and stoves, as well as food and rubbish. Campfires are banned. Good-quality waterproof clothes and boots and a robust tent are also a must. The Environment Agency lists.
Wardens warn that people routinely underestimate the challenges and dangers posed by Hornstrandir. Going on a guided trip ensures you鈥檒l be safe enough to enjoy all that extraordinary scenery.
How to get to Hornstrandir
Iceland has a strong record of allowing travel by fully-vaccinated visitors, but you鈥檒l need to .
The Westfjords are some 450km (279.6 miles) north of the capital Reykjavik 鈥 a 5-6 hour drive. Reykjavik has plentiful car hire options, including some at the country鈥檚 main entry point, Keflav铆k International Airport.
operates a 40-minute flight from Reykjav铆k Domestic Airport (50km/31 miles from Keflav铆k) to 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤.
脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤 has good accommodation options, although as elsewhere in Iceland in the summer, reserve rooms well in advance.
The mountainous landscape means there are no roads into Hornstrandir. Between June and August ferries, run by West Tours and Borea, shuttle from the main town of 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤 and nearby to a ring of drop-off points in Hornstrandir.
also operates boats between June and mid-August from on the Strandir coast to the eastern side of Hornstrandir.
Ferries don鈥檛 run every day to each pick-up point, some operate only once or twice a week. You also need to book your return ferry in advance, so if you don鈥檛 arrive, they know to send out rescue teams.
Drop-offs, routes, accommodation and collection all need to be planned thoroughly. Or join an organized trip and let the guides handle the complex logistics.
Where to go for more information
滨肠别濒补苍诲鈥檚 Environment Agency has a new Hornstrandir Visitor Centre in downtown 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤. Between September and May it鈥檚 open Monday to Friday from 1pm to 3pm. Between June and August it鈥檚 open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 4pm.
The agency鈥檚 is full of essential info to help you get the most out of your trip.
The region鈥檚 has an office in 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤 and can also advise over the phone.
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The Westfjords are on our 2022 Best of Travel list. For more stories from some of the world鈥檚 most exciting destinations click here.
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