8 things to do in Northwest Spain - beyond hiking the Camino de Santiago
Nov 6, 2024 鈥 9 min read
Fisterra may be the end of the road for pilgrims but your travels are only beginning in Northwest Spain. Jack Pearce for 香港六合彩即时开奖
On a cliffside in Fisterra, Spain, I sipped orujo de hierbas (herbal brandy) while victorious hikers rested on rocks overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Yet unlike those tourists with battered clothes and stamped Pilgrim Passports, I hadn鈥檛 arrived at Spain鈥檚 Costa da Morte by foot. Rather, I was road-tripping across the Camino de Santiago, one of the world's most popular pilgrimage routes.
While the Camino splinters into multiple paths with various starting points, the Camino Frances ranks as the most . It intersects with the Spanish regions of Galicia and Castilla y 尝别贸苍, which widely appeal to hikers in search of spiritual clarity, a sense of accomplishment, or, quite simply, a nice, long walk.
Northwest Spain, however, is far more than its trails. The Way of St. James pairs the landscapes of Green Spain with Gothic cathedrals, family-run wineries and longstanding traditions that range from the crafty to the spooky. Here, you鈥檒l find eight reasons why Galicia and Castilla y 尝别贸苍 warrant a pilgrimage in their own right 鈥 with or without your hiking boots.
1. Chase waterfalls en route to the end of the world
While the Camino technically ends in Santiago de Compostela, many pilgrims extend their journeys further west to Mux铆a and Fisterra, fittingly nicknamed 鈥渢he end of the world鈥 as one of mainland Spain鈥檚 westernmost points. Because I was traveling by car, I visited both locations in one scenic day, breaking up the drive with a stop at the 脡zaro waterfall. The peaceful landscape counts as Europe鈥檚 only river to meet the ocean via waterfall.
Also leading to the world鈥檚 end is the quaint fishing town of Muros, where curious dolphins frequently surface in the harbor.
Planning tip: Access to the waterfall is both free and straightforward; there鈥檚 a parking lot with a boardwalk that leads to 脡zaro, as well as bathrooms, food stands and kiosks to stamp your pilgrim passport. A little ways away, the Mirador de 脡zaro overlooks the coastline, with sweeping vistas that demonstrate where, exactly, the river meets the sea.
2. Take a boat trip to the wine region of Ribeira Sacra
For an experience that鈥檚 truly off the beaten path, head to the Ribeira Sacra: a dramatic wine landscape known for the production of Menc铆a. Divided by a series of rivers, the Ribeira Sacra鈥檚 steep mountains contain sloping vineyards that are best explored by boat.
I took a that drifted along the Mi帽o River before stopping at a riverfront wine cellar. There, I savored a lunch of chestnut jam贸n, Galician-style empanadas, and, of course, plenty of red wine. Some boat tours serve wine onboard, while others 鈥 particularly those near the 鈥 beckon to birdwatchers with peregrine falcons and the occasional golden eagle.
Planning tip: Pricing and hours for boat experiences depend on your length of visit and group size; cost roughly 鈧42 Euros (US$45) and spanned two and a half hours 鈥 the perfect amount of time for a leisurely lunch and sightseeing. Even if you鈥檙e visiting the Ribeira Sacra by car, you should pre-book your tasting. Some wineries accommodate walk-ins, but depending on the winery鈥檚 size, you鈥檙e never guaranteed a seat without a reservation.
3. Tour an 18th-century palace-turned-winery
If you prefer your wineries on land, you鈥檒l find one of the most memorable tasting experiences in Castilla y 尝别贸苍鈥檚 El Bierzo wine region. , an 18th-century palace, functions as a hotel, restaurant and winery, specializing in red Menc铆a and white Godello wines, with (74 acres) of vineyards.
Before you pick up your fork, hop aboard the property鈥檚 and embark on something of a wine safari. As you weave between the vines, you鈥檒l feel the terrain firsthand 鈥 and whet your appetite for a wine-paired tasting menu. Don鈥檛 leave El Bierzo without trying botillo, a regional meat specialty.
Planning tip: A tour on Palacio de Canedo鈥檚 鈥溾 costs between 鈧48 and 鈧60 (US$52-65) for two people and, like most attractions along the Camino, is best reserved prior to your arrival. If you鈥檙e planning to eat, the restaurant tends to fill up, so make your reservation in advance.
4. Go city-hopping between Burgos and 尝别贸苍
It鈥檚 easy to mistake the Camino de Santiago for a quiet respite that鈥檚 all about nature. The trail certainly overlaps with some of Spain鈥檚 most pristine scenery, but it also passes through lively cities brimming with Gothic architecture and tapas bars. The equally spectacular 鈥 yet very different 鈥 cathedrals in Burgos and 尝别贸苍 anchor large plazas, perfect for sightseeing and people-watching in tandem. In 尝别贸苍鈥檚 San Isidoro Museum, you鈥檒l also find a gilded, bejeweled chalice rumored to be the Holy Grail.
If you鈥檙e not tired from your hike 鈥 or if you, like me, are following the Camino鈥檚 shell-engraved footpaths insofar as they guide you to dinner 鈥 don鈥檛 hesitate to wander. Whether you stroll along the riverbank in Burgos or embark on a tapas crawl in 尝别贸苍鈥檚 Barrio H煤medo (try ), end your outing with a generous pour of vermouth. I ordered a glass steps from Burgos鈥 cathedral at , which also serves its trademark spirit in the form of vermouth-fried cod.
Planning tip: Situated roughly two hours apart, Burgos and 尝别贸苍 warrant at least one day each. Hotels abound in each city鈥檚 old town, though neither destination is particularly huge. Regardless of where you stay, you鈥檒l never be too far from your chosen activity.
5. Play cheesemonger for the day
Less than two miles from the Camino鈥檚 path, pairs tours of traditional farmhouses with lessons in cheesemaking. While visiting the farm, I turned milk into cow cheese, stirring, straining, and forming it by hand. This activity not only supplied me with a spread for the next morning鈥檚 pan gallego (traditional bread), but also grounded me in rural Galician life.
Alternatively, if you prefer sweet to savory, head west to the 鈥渓iving honey museum,鈥 . For a few euros, you鈥檒l don a beekeeping suit and witness the intricacies of worker bees directly from their hive. In between these two sites, the women-run directly overlaps with the Camino Frances and teaches tourists how to make natural cosmetics of their choosing.
Planning tip: If you鈥檙e not hiking, you鈥檒l need a car to reach any of the above locations, all of which are an hour or less from Santiago de Compostela. Make sure to book any hands-on activities or tours in advance, whether you want to make toothpaste or cheese. If you鈥檙e looking to simply shop for a jar of fresh honey or shampoo, however, you can stop by either the Milhulloa Coop or Enredo do Abelleiro according to their hours listed online.
6. Marvel at Gaudi鈥檚 designs and eat your fill of chocolate
Barcelona鈥檚 Sagrada Familia may be under construction until 2026, but Astorga鈥檚 Palacio de Gaud铆 can help fill that architectural void. Antoni Gaud铆 started work on the palace in 1988, and his trademark style characterizes the building鈥檚 airy, whimsical interior and curved, Neo-Gothic facade. Outside the palace鈥檚 grounds, however, chocolate is akin to the town鈥檚 architect, with a presence in Astorga that dates back to the 1600s. For tourists with a sweet tooth 鈥 or pilgrims in search of a sugar rush 鈥 tour the museum of chocolate. Then, sip thick, Spanish-style hot chocolate from the city鈥檚 most historic chocolatier.
Planning tip: Astorga condenses the best of a Spanish city 鈥 world-class architecture, traditional dishes like 鈥檚 cocido maragato, and one-of-a-kind pastries in 鈥檚 merles 鈥 into a charming, walkable town. Even if you鈥檝e rented a car, you likely won鈥檛 need it to explore Astorga as most activities are centrally located.
7. Step back in time at a 7th-century forge
As one of Spain鈥檚 oldest blacksmiths, Ponferrada鈥檚 transports visitors to the 7th century with technology that鈥檚 withstood the test of time. After a short trail hike to the forge鈥檚 stone building, I met fourth-generation blacksmith, Manuel Sanchez, who demonstrated his family鈥檚 hydraulic system; operations depend on a water wheel, which helps fuel the fire. In a matter of minutes, Sanchez made and engraved a sharp iron tool over that crackling flame. What better indicator of medieval engineering鈥檚 longevity?
Planning tip: The trail hike begins in the parking lot and requires a few minutes of walking over mostly flat terrain. However, the route isn鈥檛 paved, and parts of the ground are slightly rocky, so good shoes and a sunny day make for an ideal visit. The blacksmith opens at set times in both the morning and afternoon, though the forge鈥檚 website recommends booking your visit in advance. At the very least, double-check the forge鈥檚 hours before driving, as they鈥檙e subject to change.
8. Boost your spirits with queimada
If a visit to the forge isn鈥檛 fiery enough, up the ante with a ceremonial queimada: a flaming alcoholic beverage that combines orujo, coffee beans, citrus peels, and sugar. Intended to dissuade sinister spirits, the punch catches fire while a spell is recited. Tourists can book , though many of Galicia鈥檚 bars, hotels, and restaurants also offer the option.
While the tradition is rumored to have Celtic roots, Galicians still make queimada for June鈥檚 鈥淲itches Night,鈥 as well as select celebrations and family gatherings. Given Northwest Spain鈥檚 reputation for rainfall, you need a way to stay warm, after all.
Planning tip: I participated in my first queimada at the restaurant of As the ritual requires a clay pot and matching set of cups, it鈥檚 not an experience the hotel 鈥 or most Galician restaurants 鈥 readily advertises on the menu, so my group asked about partaking before we even arrived. To guarantee your own queimada, book a specific experience online or inquire with your restaurant when making a reservation.
How to travel the Camino by car
Rent a car: If you鈥檙e not doing the Camino by foot, a car is a must-have. You can rent a vehicle in any of the trail鈥檚 major cities, many of which also have airports. You鈥檒l likely find the most options for car rentals in Madrid, which sits less than three hours from Burgos. Directly on the trail, you can alternatively rent a vehicle in Santiago de Compostela, Burgos, and 尝别贸苍.
Try a bus tour: If you鈥檇 rather not drive yourself, base yourself at the Camino鈥檚 end in Santiago de Compostela, and choose from a that visit Fisterra, 脡zaro, and Mux铆a. You can also rent a car for day trips from Santiago to less-trafficked Galician sites, none of which are too far from the city.
When to go: As for when to take your getaway, plan for fall or spring. While summer has the best weather, it鈥檚 also the Camino鈥檚 busiest time; pilgrims tend to hike between April and October. The shoulder seasons, therefore, come with limited crowds and still-decent sunshine, though you鈥檒l always want to pack a raincoat and extra layers.
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